Unveiling the Reality of Shein's $12 Dresses: The Hidden Workforce Behind Fast Fashion

A glimpse into the working conditions of the labor force powering Shein uncovers critical questions about ethics and sustainability in fast fashion.

During an investigation into Shein's labor practices in Guangzhou, the so-called "Shein village," workers shared frustrations over long hours, low pay, and a precarious work environment. The Chinese fast-fashion giant has rapidly ascended to prominence, valued at about £54bn ($66bn), as it provides billions of garments for a global market that demands low prices. Many laborers in Panyu, where these factories thrive, face work weeks pushing beyond 75 hours in violation of local laws. A worker indicated that she rarely has a day off, often toiling 31 straight days. These harsh working conditions prompted outrage, as the brand grapples with allegations of worker exploitation, including incidents of child labor.

While Shein has expressed commitment to ethical treatment and compliance, insiders reveal the relentless drive for profit leads factory owners to cut costs on wages and labor standards. Factories operate on a per-piece payment model, leading to workers chasing pieces of clothing to earn a meager wage that's often not livable. Regular shifts extend late into the night, as demand for affordable garments surges, with Shein’s algorithm keeping pace with trending items online. Despite the notable working conditions, some factory employees maintain pride in their roles, viewing their labor as vital contributions to global fashion. Yet, the futility of balancing profitability with fair treatment of workers poses the ultimate challenge for Shein’s future amid rising scrutiny and competition.

With the brand's plans to list on the London Stock Exchange, experts suggest increased transparency in its supply chain could determine its reputation going forward, while the world continues to scrutinize the real cost of fast fashion.