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Arepas: The Culinary Showdown Between Colombia and Venezuela

A deep dive into the rivalry over the beloved South American dish that goes beyond borders.

By James WagnerSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Arepas: The Culinary Showdown Between Colombia and Venezuela
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

As culinary passion runs high, Colombians and Venezuelans alike claim dominion over the iconic arepa, revealing a rich tapestry of cultural identity and culinary pride.

A heated rivalry simmers quietly between Colombia and Venezuela — not over politics or sports, but over the cherished arepa. This round cornbread staple, integral to the cuisine of both nations, provides more than just sustenance; it embodies cultural heritage that has evolved through generations. Gustavo Zapata, a dedicated chef at Medellín's renowned Sancho Paisa restaurant chain, emphasizes that "everyone defends their territory" when it comes to these delicious delights. This culinary clash has roots similar to other international food debates, such as the rivalry between Peru and Ecuador over ceviche or the contested origins of hummus between Israel and Lebanon.Despite the spirited arguments about its origin, the arepa has transformed into a platform for expressing national identity. Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro has historically leveraged the arepa for nationalist sentiment, attempting to claim it solely for his country amidst a backdrop of economic crisis and mass migration. As millions of Venezuelans have settled worldwide, bringing their unique interpretations of arepas with them, the culinary feud continues to blaze, igniting passionate discussions over who truly makes the best arepa.

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