The Untapped Wealth of Indian Hair: A Goldmine for Wigs

The demand for Indian hair for wig production is soaring, revealing a multi-billion dollar industry ripe for innovation. Despite significant exports, the local economy and collectors remain underpaid, urging a call for investment and better practices in the sector.

In the colorful world of Indian drag performance, wigs play a crucial role in shaping an artist's identity. Mumbai-based drag performer Zeeshan Ali, who has spent a decade honing his craft, boasts a collection of about 45 wigs. "Each one helps me express different aspects of my character, from the glamorous to the whimsical," explains Ali. However, sourcing quality wigs wasn't always easy.

"In the past, I often had to make my own wigs from whatever materials I could find, as access was limited," he recalls, noting a substantial change in recent years. The stigma surrounding wig use has faded, with more women across India adopting them as trendy accessories rather than mere theatrical props.

India, known as the leading exporter of human hair, supplies a staggering 85% of the global market demand. Kolachi Venkatesh from Chennai has dedicated 20 years to collecting this valuable resource, a practice he learned from his parents. “What many dismiss as waste is, in fact, a treasure,” he states emphatically.

While individual hair collectors earn a meager income, selling their products for as little as $1 per kilogram, Venkatesh understands the industry's larger dynamics. “Our efforts feed into a billion-dollar market, yet we remain at the bottom of the earnings ladder,” he critiques the exploitative nature of intermediaries.

Most of India’s hair ends up in China's extensive wig-making industry, valued at five to six billion dollars. Benjamin Cherian of Plexconcil emphasizes the need for India to enhance its capabilities if it desires a larger share of the burgeoning wig market. "China has a comprehensive network of factories, whereas India is still playing catch-up," he remarks, urging governmental support for modernizing and innovating manufacturing techniques.

One Indian company leading the way is Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in 2009. The firm aims to provide high-quality hair solutions amidst increased social acceptance surrounding hair loss and wigs. Tiwari mentions advancements in technology, such as 3D printing and customized solutions, as pivotal to the industry's evolution.

At the top tier of hair quality lies Temple or Remy hair, sourced from southern Indian temples where devotees sacrifice their hair as an act of devotion. Companies like Raj Hair International meticulously sort and grade this high-value resource, ensuring minimal waste through upgraded technology. CEO George Cherion reports a surging global demand for Indian hair, highlighting its natural allure and fine texture.

Meanwhile, back in Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali hopes for a surge in locally produced wigs. He envisions not just affordability but designs that create a striking impression on stage, urging the industry to harness its full creative potential.