Just minutes apart, Gisenyi, Rwanda, and Goma, Congo, showcase two starkly different experiences along Lake Kivu, exacerbated by the recent M23 rebel offensive, highlighting the complexities of regional tensions and the human toll of conflict.
Diverging Fates: A Tale of Two Shores on Lake Kivu

Diverging Fates: A Tale of Two Shores on Lake Kivu
The contrasting realities on either side of Lake Kivu reveal a striking disparity between the peacefulness of Rwanda and the turmoil in the Democratic Republic of Congo amid ongoing conflicts.
Lake Kivu's shoreline paints a contrasting picture of life on either side of its azure waters. On the Rwandan side, Gisenyi welcomes visitors with its scenic beauty and leisure activities. Here, residents enjoy vibrant beachside restaurants and recreational opportunities like jet-skiing and canoeing. Yet, just a short distance away in Goma, a city in the Democratic Republic of Congo, a tragic reality unfolds. Following a violent takeover by the M23 rebel group last month, the once-bustling metropolis has descended into chaos, with an estimated 3,000 lives claimed in the ensuing bloodshed.
This duality of existence is poignantly embodied in the experience of Exauce Shalako, a 20-year-old man from Goma, who sought refuge from the grim situation by crossing into Rwanda for a brief respite. "We need to unwind, to have a change of scene," he reflects, acknowledging the heartfelt losses he has endured while craving the serenity that Rwanda presently offers.
However, behind Rwanda's tranquil façade lies a deeply troubling reality: substantial allegations tie the Rwandan government to M23's activities, with experts claiming an ongoing military presence in eastern Congo. This contradiction raises critical questions of culpability, as many in Rwanda turn a blind eye to the turmoil just across the lake.
The stark contrast of life on either shore of Lake Kivu underscores not only the humanitarian crises that unfold in the region but also the complexity of friendships and enmities entwined in its history. As Gisenyi thrives in peace, Goma grapples with the dread of violence and loss—an ongoing tale of two worlds deeply intertwined by war.
This duality of existence is poignantly embodied in the experience of Exauce Shalako, a 20-year-old man from Goma, who sought refuge from the grim situation by crossing into Rwanda for a brief respite. "We need to unwind, to have a change of scene," he reflects, acknowledging the heartfelt losses he has endured while craving the serenity that Rwanda presently offers.
However, behind Rwanda's tranquil façade lies a deeply troubling reality: substantial allegations tie the Rwandan government to M23's activities, with experts claiming an ongoing military presence in eastern Congo. This contradiction raises critical questions of culpability, as many in Rwanda turn a blind eye to the turmoil just across the lake.
The stark contrast of life on either shore of Lake Kivu underscores not only the humanitarian crises that unfold in the region but also the complexity of friendships and enmities entwined in its history. As Gisenyi thrives in peace, Goma grapples with the dread of violence and loss—an ongoing tale of two worlds deeply intertwined by war.