**The Great Ducana Debate: Preserving Culinary Traditions in Antigua and Barbuda**

Sat Mar 01 2025 00:38:07 GMT+0200 (Eastern European Standard Time)
**The Great Ducana Debate: Preserving Culinary Traditions in Antigua and Barbuda**

Culinary heritage sparks discussion on national identity and culture recognition.


Antigua and Barbuda's beloved dish, ducana, garners passionate debates over raisins, highlighting the ongoing effort to protect rich cultural traditions.

In Antigua and Barbuda, food no longer serves merely as sustenance but has become a battleground for identity and heritage, particularly concerning the beloved national dish known as "ducana." This sweet potato and coconut dumpling has stirred spirited discourse among the island's residents for generations, with the essential question being: should it contain raisins?

As Antigua and Barbuda embarks on an ambitious initiative to create a national inventory of its cultural heritage, the discussion over ducana promises to gain even more traction. This project aims to encapsulate the essence of the twin islands, documenting not only culinary customs but also the unique dialect, traditional medicine, local crafts, architecture, and boat-building practices. Funded by UNESCO, the effort arises from growing concerns about the erosion of indigenous cultural practices and knowledge passed from one generation to the next.

"No longer do we see the traditional exchange of knowledge between our elders and the youth," explains Dr. Hazra Medica, the project leader. The project seeks to combat outside influences that threaten to dilute Antigua's unique culture, as fears mount that the island’s distinct identity might vanish over time. Armed with a team of data collectors, the project aims to gather stories and photos from residents across various parishes, which will culminate in a publicly accessible database.

Joy Lawrence, a local author whose works emphasize Antigua’s Creole/English dialect, eagerly joined the project. Lawrence highlights how the dialect, which incorporates numerous African words, arose from the historical struggle of ancestors who lacked a shared language upon their arrival. “Our forebears worked hard to forge this language,” she contends, emphasizing its importance and calling for its preservation in the face of historical dismissiveness.

“Antiguans are known for their brief and energetic expressions, often turning phrases like ‘not at all’ into a simple ‘tarl,’” she explains. Interest in preserving this linguistic heritage stems from a resurgence of pride in local culture, especially as dialect makes its way back into schools and social settings, removing the stigma once associated with it.

Besides the ducana debate, culinary practices like the preparation of "fungee," a traditional cornmeal mix, are another source of lighthearted disagreement among islanders, infusing the preservation efforts with humor. Dr. Medica acknowledges how differing methods create rifts, particularly when fortifying the dish with various local ingredients.

For Novella Payne, a local producer of traditional foods, the passing down of recipes from generation to generation is critical. Payne produces a range of local teas, sauces, and seasonings, drawing upon ancient methods that incorporate local medicinal plants known for their healing properties. “Preserving our food culture is vital,” she insists, underlining its integral role in societal identity.

As efforts to safeguard these traditions extend into Barbuda, individuals like Dwight Benjamin are committed to keeping the art of traditional broom-making alive. Trained by his grandfather, Benjamin emphasizes the functionality and uniqueness of handcrafted brooms. “They simply work better,” he asserts, underscoring the significance of traditional crafts as markers of identity.

Ultimately, Dr. Medica points out the historical context behind preserving culture in the Caribbean. “Our history didn’t start when Africans were brought here,” she affirms, highlighting a legacy rich with cultural retention that deserves recognition. The project encapsulates not only the distinctiveness of Antiguan existence but also serves as a meaningful assertion of personhood and identity for its citizens.

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